Vigan Sinanglaw

VIGAN, ILOCOS SUR – Most people drink coffee to perk up their mornings but a bowl of steaming hotsinanglaw is just as potent for Ilocanos.

Sinanglaw (also spelled as “sinanglao”) literally means “steamed” in the local dialect. It tastes a lot likebulalo – I see bits of tripe and intestines – except it doesn’t have vegetables. The ginger-y taste also gives it a hint of papaitan-like texture.

I discovered sinanglaw during our recent roadtrip to Ilocos, arriving in Vigan in time to catch the sunset. Weary from taking photos, we headed for the empanaderia (located near Plaza Burgos) hoping to sample their empanadas.

The vendors told us empanadas won’t be cooked until ten o’clock so the sinanglaw caught our attention.

Bridgette Llanes, a Vigan local and RPE Sinanglaoan’s resident cook for five years now, proudly told us that sinanglaw is one dish that is identified with Ilocos Sur.

“Dito talaga nagsimula at kilala ang sinanglaw lalo pag umaga kasi ang empanada naman ay tuwing tanghali o hapon na nakikita ng mga tao sa mga tindahan (People here eat sinanglaw for breakfast because empanadas are usually eaten at lunch or as an afternoon snack),” says Manang Bridgette.

A bowl of sinanglaw costs P50. The authentic Ilocos sinanglaw has cow’s heart, large intestines, tenderloin, lungs and skin, kept boiling in water used to wash rice before cooking.

Sinanglaw is also complete meal if you order rice as well. But the secret to enjoying the meal would be adding sukang Iloco (Ilocos vinegar) and pepper. Its distinct smell will surely wake up your appetite.

For the less adventurous, Manang Bridgette also serves goto and mami. But when Vigan, the sinanglaw is a must-try you need to include in your Ilocos to-do list. Blogger Dackydoc raved about tasting sinanglaw made from recently butchered cow.

Sinanglaw is sometimes serve using goat spareribs as an alternative. The site All Meat Filipino Food Recipes also provides offers a sinanglaw recipe that uses vegetables.